Mike Berman’s Washington Watch

October 20, 2008 7:53 AM

Restaurant: Le Cirque

Le Cirque

Bellagio Hotel
3600 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
Fax 702-693-8500
This is a restaurant into which you do not want to venture if you are any way attempting to control your caloric intake.

Henry and I had an early dinner during a business trip to Las Vegas.

The restaurant is physically circular and has several tables on an outside patio that overlooks the spectacular water displays which are the trademark of the Bellagio. On this particular night the size of the parties in the main dining room ranged from two to 14.

There is a striking calmness once you enter the restaurant and leave the hubbub of the halls and casinos.

Henry started with Escargots au Beurre d'Ail, Burgundy Snails in Garlic Herb Butter, Croutons, Confit Tomato and Parma Prosciutto. Henry provided me with a tasting. Hard to describe, clearly the best snails I have eaten since those at the Lowell Inn in Stillwater, Minnesota.

I chose Filet de Rouget, Rock Fish, Bay Scallops & Shrimp Escabiche, Cilantro, and Black Olive Tapenade. The presentation was particularly alluring, and the tastes were commensurate.

Henry then moved to the Sole Meuniere, dover Sole Menuiere, Potato d L'Anglaise & Glazed Vegetables.

I could not resist the "Blanquette" de Lupin a Rabbit Symphony: Ravioli, Roasted Loin, Braised Leg with Crispy Spaetzles and Riesling Sauce.

Then there were the desserts. Henry opted for Creme Brulee "Le Cirque," a Classic Vanilla Creme Brulee. I went for something I had never come across before, Delice de Framboise, Creme Mascarpone, Raspberry Milk Shake, light Mascarpone Creme, Crunch of Feeillentine. Of course, I thought this was some kind of a drink. Not the case. It could only be eaten with a spoon. And then, as if we had not already gone through a week's worth of calories, a perfect chocolate souffle was delivered for the two of us to share.

The service is beyond impeccable. Certainly it is in the same league with Quince in San Francisco.

Le Cirque is only open for dinner.

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