Mike Berman’s Washington Watch

April 11, 2009 11:49 AM

Restaurant: piperade


1015 Battery Street
San Francisco, California 94111
415-391-2555, Fax 415-391-1159
Once again, Stanley has demonstrated his taste for really good food. That is the story of "piperade."

The restaurant seats 66 people at tables of 2, 4 and 6 people. Larger parties can be accommodated by combining tables. The bar, which runs nearly the length of the restaurant as you enter, can handle a dozen folks on high chairs. In addition, there is room for another 20 folks on tables on an open area just outside the door of the restaurant.

Stanley started with a Grande white bean salad with bouquerones, fresh herbs and crushed eggs. I opted for the mixed chicory and endive salad, with pears and perfect blondes.

Stanley was quite lyrical about his main course of lamb chops. On the menu the offering is lamb chops and lamb sausage, but he ordered it with the sausage replaced by an additional lamb chop. As he savored the first bite he exclaimed "this lamb chop is (expletive deleted) amazing."

I chose the Wednesday special, "seafood and shellfish soup toro". What was first delivered was the soup special of the day, "pea and ham." It was quickly replaced, and the seafood soup special was excellent.

At Stanley's suggestion, we shared a side dish, "Manchego potato gratin." It was delicious.

For dessert we shared an excellent "caramel custard 'koka.'"

Overall, the food was really good, nicely plated, but not fussy or overdone. It had the affect of comfort food, but was many notches above that which is usually described with that phrase.

I did not go to the men's room ,but Stanley described it as large and clean. Dinner at $105 for two (without the tip) for two appetizers, two entrees, one dessert, and 1 glass of wine was quite reasonable.

The service was good and attentive and appropriately friendly.

Reservations are recommended, especially given its relatively small size.

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